| Route description: Ben Cruachan & Stob Diamh Munros included on this walk: Ben Cruachan & Stob Diamh Time taken: 8 hours Distance: 14 km Ascent: 1376m |
The unseasonably warm April weather continued to be excellent for hill walking and the forecast for today was no different. A 80% chance of cloud free summits, according to MWIS, merited a trip West along the A85 to tackle Ben Cruachan and the ridge walk to Stob Diamh. Concerns that there may still be a lot of snow on the ridge appeared to be put to rest as we caught first sight of the ridge bathed in the early morning sun (unfortunately snow did prove an obstacle, but more on that later !) as we drove to our start point, the small layby outside the Falls of Cruachan train station.
We arrived at the start point, boots on and on our way by 08.45. The initial climb up through the woods heading for Cruachan Dam is extremely steep and rugged to say the least. Fortunately at this time of the year the foliage had yet to return to the trees and ferns which line the narrow route. It must be a nightmare in the summer, and I wouldn't like to imagine the midgey infestation who'd hang out there, sharpening their teeth by the millions !
As always a steep climb gains height quickly and we soon had excellent views back over the beginning of Loch Awe and the small array of fish farming cages. Luckily we were still shaded from the sun as I was already beginning to struggle with the heat. We arrived at the dam in around 40 minutes and the early exertion saw me strip off to shorts and a t-shirt and apply the factor 50 as we took a breather on the dam wall. It was already shaping up to be a scorcher!
We arrived at the start point, boots on and on our way by 08.45. The initial climb up through the woods heading for Cruachan Dam is extremely steep and rugged to say the least. Fortunately at this time of the year the foliage had yet to return to the trees and ferns which line the narrow route. It must be a nightmare in the summer, and I wouldn't like to imagine the midgey infestation who'd hang out there, sharpening their teeth by the millions !
As always a steep climb gains height quickly and we soon had excellent views back over the beginning of Loch Awe and the small array of fish farming cages. Luckily we were still shaded from the sun as I was already beginning to struggle with the heat. We arrived at the dam in around 40 minutes and the early exertion saw me strip off to shorts and a t-shirt and apply the factor 50 as we took a breather on the dam wall. It was already shaping up to be a scorcher!
The fish cages in Loch Awe
The first glimpse of the dam
The man made Loch Cruachan
Targetting Ben Cruachan as the first summit of the day saw us head down the left side of the loch along a good land rover track. The going underfoot was quite boggy in places but must be considerably worse under 'normal' conditions (barely any rain in 3 weeks) however you are treated to excellent views of the ridge and the summits throughout the walk up the glen. The small patches of snow atop Cruachan did begin to look like it may cause us a problem but blind optimism told us it would be OK !
As we followed the small stream up the path towards the bealach it looked increasingly likely our route would be blocked by snow in Coire Dearg. Again we thought there will be a way around it, isn't there always ? Not this time ! We tried to go up it at first but it was so soft your feet went right through to the hidden boulder field below and the chances of a broken leg looked likely. We tried to go up around it which had some success except that the higher we got the size of the cornice at the top increased. We then decided having come this far that perhaps we could scale the steep slopes of the glen and make straight for the ridge....In this heat ? madness!
As we followed the small stream up the path towards the bealach it looked increasingly likely our route would be blocked by snow in Coire Dearg. Again we thought there will be a way around it, isn't there always ? Not this time ! We tried to go up it at first but it was so soft your feet went right through to the hidden boulder field below and the chances of a broken leg looked likely. We tried to go up around it which had some success except that the higher we got the size of the cornice at the top increased. We then decided having come this far that perhaps we could scale the steep slopes of the glen and make straight for the ridge....In this heat ? madness!
River running up the glen and the snow blocking Coire Dearg in the top left
A few attempts at climbing out the gully ultimately proved futile as we met more snow or sheer slopes that were impossible to ascend. However, after making our way back down towards the dam we were able to identify a 'diagonal' route up through the patches of lying snow that would bring us out on the ridge just to the right of the famous Cruachan slabs.
In the midday sun, the relentlessly steep slopes had us questioning our sanity as we frequently paused to get our breath back on the slow climb towards the ridge. I'm not exaggerating when I say I have never felt more exhausted on a hill than I did just before the final push to the ridge. I genuinely believe had there been an easy descent we'd have been heading back to the car. The elation as we finally climbed out on to the ridge matched any I'd felt on reaching any summit and without doubt was it worth every strength sapping step. The views were simply amazing. Not one of the accompanying photos can do the views justice but I do hope they at least give you a flavour of the stunning scenery that surrounded us.
In the midday sun, the relentlessly steep slopes had us questioning our sanity as we frequently paused to get our breath back on the slow climb towards the ridge. I'm not exaggerating when I say I have never felt more exhausted on a hill than I did just before the final push to the ridge. I genuinely believe had there been an easy descent we'd have been heading back to the car. The elation as we finally climbed out on to the ridge matched any I'd felt on reaching any summit and without doubt was it worth every strength sapping step. The views were simply amazing. Not one of the accompanying photos can do the views justice but I do hope they at least give you a flavour of the stunning scenery that surrounded us.
On the ridge at last
Ahead to Cruachan, sheer crags to the right of the slabs
As I looked ahead to the summit of Ben Cruachan my heart sank a little as we realised that there was no way to reach the summit without crossing a couple of large areas of snow. I decided that I wanted to have a closer look and headed quickly over to the slabs, just a big mass of stone 'slabs' you either have to go over or around. To be honest they were easily negotiated, although I might not have been so keen if they were wet! The route up to the summit meanders through and over some quite rocky terrain but within a matter of minutes I had reached the offending area of snow. The slope was significant and I couldn't be sure where the cornice on the right began and the ground underfoot ended. The snow was soft but I didn't have an ice axe and although others had clearly crossed I didn't have the stomach for it. After all that effort I was literally metres from the summit when I took the excruciatingly painful decision to turn back. I know very little of avalanches and about the snow pack but I do know that Ben Cruachan will still be there when I choose to return, which I undeniably will...and soon I hope. Better men than me have fallen from mountains during much less precarious situations than the one that faced me. I guess it'll always come down to your perception of risk. When it comes to mountain safety I hope to always remain a tad risk averse.
Oh so close. What the photo doesn't show is the gradient and the huge and certainly fatal fall should you slip
As I stood looking at the ridge walk ahead of us my disappointment soon disappeared. The views were outstanding in every direction. The ridge itself is easy enough, although very rocky in places, there is little real exposure. We headed along the ridge towards the summit of Drochaid Ghlas where a cairn marks the point of the beginning of a very steep and loose scree descent before you begin the final pull up to Stob Diamh, the second Munro on the ridge.
The ridge to Drochaid Ghlas
Half way along the ridge, looking very Alpine !
Looking back to Cruachan
The last ascent to the summit of Stob Diamh was easy enough, the pospect of at least bagging one munro served as motivation to keep the old legs moving, did I mention I had completed a round of 4 Munros in Drummochter last night !! Once again the views were amazing, we could see quite clearly the silhouette of the Cuillins on Skye, unfortunately the camera on my phone doesn't do 'zoom' very well and I couldn't get a decent photo. The magnificent hills of Glencoe to the North, with only a dusting of snow remaining looked majestic and I believe that this is the first time I've looked upon Ben Nevis and seen the summit free of cloud and clag. As I mentioned earlier, none of these pictures do justice to the incredible views.
Obligatory summit shot ! Snow capped Ben Nevis in the distance
Looking down the length of Loch Awe
Looking North to Glencoe and over Loch Etive
Just a wonderful ridge walk
Due to the failed ascents, detours, and general gawping at the scenery we had been on the go for almost 7 hours and still had the lengthy descent to complete. With that in mind we reluctantly left Stob Diamh and headed along the remainder of the ridge. The descent down the grassy slopes is extremely boggy and unpleasant and seemed to go on forever. When we found ourselves back above Loch Cruachan it was clear we were still quite high and had some way to go before we were off the hill. The 'path' snakes along the opposite side of the loch from the ascent route and soon leads you back to the dam where the outward path is rejoined. As mentioned earlier this intial path was extremely steep and this coupled with weary legs made the last few metres of descent rather precarious. However we made it safely to the car....that's where the problems really started !! An accident just East of Crianlarich had closed the A85 resulting in a 80 mile and additional 2 hour diversion via Loch Lomond and Stirling before I could head back up to Perth. What made matters worse was my companions car was sitting in Lochearnhead where we had met earlier in the day. I finally got home nearly 14 hours after I had left. An epic day in the hills indeed, despite some of the events I certainly did not feel unlucky......bloody tired though !!
The descent route. One of a number of cornices just waiting to break off
UPDATE May '18
Well it took a bit longer than I had initially thought but return I did and this time I managed to complete the horseshoe, finally bagging Ben Cruachan into the bargain. The weather was again fantastic with no troublesome snow patches this time. I won't ramble on as the walk was obviously the same, I'll just let the pictures do the talking....
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